You've just bought a
new bike. Now what do you do? Just climb aboard and ride
away?
Maybe, but a little
preparation can go along way toward making that first
ride, and subsequent ones, everything they should be.
Few things can ruin a
ride faster than a flat tire you're not prepared to
handle. Or a weather change that leaves you cold and
wet. Or any number of little problems you're not ready
for.
That's where some
knowledge and a few useful bike accessories come into
play. Anyone can buy a bike and hack around on it, but
if you want to be a safer and self-reliant rider, part
of the sport is learning to meet the challenges of
riding with a certain style and grace.
Bike equipment is
available to address the problems you'll face on the
road or trail. If you're like most riders, you'll opt
for the necessities, and a few toys that catch your eye.
Some riders happily get by with very little equipment,
while others want only the best, and a lot of it. Either
type is served well by a healthy bicycle industry which
supports a lot of product variety and innovation. These
products are offered nationwide through a fine network
of bicycle retailers, 6,800-strong, who will help you
learn the basics, as well as the nuances, of cycling.
Let's start by looking at
some of the basics. For the purposes of discussion,
let's call these necessities, though some of them
aren't. They're the kinds of things a reasonably
well-prepared and at least semi-committed cyclist should
have. It's not a complete list, but it's meant as a
primer for those who are starting out. They apply
whether you're a city rider, a mountain rider, an
extended tourer, or a day tourer.
Heading the List
Starting literally at the
top, and at the top of this list, are helmets. Wear a
helmet every time you ride. It's that simple. The
increased availability and quality of good helmets is
probably the greatest innovation in cycling in the last
15 years.
Experienced riders know
that if you ride a lot, you'll pr
obably fall off sooner
or later. The time will come, especially if you've been
riding for a lot of miles, when fatigue clouds your
judgment. You forget to pull your foot out of the pedal
at a stop. A car cuts you off, and you react incorrectly
by hitting only the front brake. A cat runs under your
wheels and you instinctively bail off to save kitty. You
hit a loose spot on a trail. You just fall off. It
happens.
It's smart to prepare
accordingly. Today's bicycle helmets are not infallible,
but they work awfully well. You owe it to yourself.
Pick a helmet that's
comfortable. Your bike shop is the place to try
different models and styles, and where you can find a
helmet which fits properly. Remember -- helmet fit is
critical! A too-loose helmet may not protect you. A
too-tight helmet can hurt. All decent helmets come with
built-in vents. Most of them are pretty light. And most
offer aerodynamic advantages over a hairy head.
Wear a helmet with an
expanded polystyrene liner -- that's what absorbs the
shock of a blow. Expect to spend $40 to $100 for a good
helmet. As they say, it's cheap insurance.
Fix It
Next comes the "fix
it" category. You don't need to carry a complete
repair shop on the road, but you need enough little
doodads to make some simple repairs.
Buy a small saddlebag to
carry this assorted stuff. There are excellent bags
which attach under the saddle. The bag should have
enough room to carry, say, your identification, house
key, some money, and coins for using a pay phone.
You'll also need some
things to allow you to fix a flat tire. If you're new to
this game, ask your bike dealer to show you how it's
done. Check out books and magazines for tips. Then,
practice at home a few times so you won't be frustrated
far from home.
Basically, you'll need a
patch kit. It will have in it, appropriately, patches,
to plug any holes in a tube. It'll also have some glue,
and some sandpaper for roughing up the surface so the
patch will stick. Get a set of tire levers so you can
pry the tire away from the rim (if you have tubular
"one-piece" tires, ask your dealer for advice
on fixing them). And, if you don't have quick-release
hubs, you'll need a wrench for taking the wheel off. A
lot of riders also carry an extra tube, just in case the
one you're using is totally shredded. It also gives you
the choice of fixing the puncture later, and quickly
replacing the leaky tube with a good one while on the
road.
You'll also need a pump
for the bike. They're light and come in a lot of styles.
Your dealer can also sell you a neat little compressed
air gizmo which pumps its own carbon dioxide gas, which
saves you the trouble of pumping.
If you've got tubular
tires, carry along a pre-stretched and pre-glued tire as
a spare. That saves all sorts of potential headaches.
And, buy a good lock if
you plan to leave your bike parked out of your sight.
Drink Up
The next essential is a
water bottle, with a cage for holding it on your bike.
If you ride with much gusto, it's easy to go through a
full water bottle or more each hour. Your body's the
engine. It needs liquid lubrication. Not only does
perspiration cause fluid loss, but a lot of moisture is
exhaled as you roll along. A lot of racers use large
bottles, and carry two or more bottles on their bikes.
There are even water-carrying systems which can be
carried on your back. Your dealer can help you decide
what is best.
The general rule is to
drink before you're thirsty. By the time your body is
telling you to drink, your engine may already be a quart
or more low.
A lot of good bikes have
braze-ons to accept bottle cages. If yours doesn't,
they're available with clamps which fit around your
tubes.
Ride With Sole
Shoes are next on the
list. If you've started riding in running shoes, general
athletic shoes, or something along those lines, you'll
be amazed at how much better true cycling shoes are.
It's a matter of too much flexibility at the front of
the shoe. General-purpose shoes have it. Cycling shoes
don't. When you're spinning circles with a pedal, a
flexible sole doesn't do much for you, except make your
foot tired.
There are a couple of
ways to go with shoes. Some attach to "clipless"
pedals -- a little like ski bindings. Some work with
toe-clips or platform pedals. Some way of attaching your
foot to the pedal is good, because you can press down as
well as pull up, you can crank pretty hard without
worrying about the shoe coming off the pedal, and it
keeps your foot properly positioned.
Decide going in whether
you want shoes which you can also walk in. That's
important if you might want to stroll around a park a
bit, or stop by a market. Some racing shoes have cleats
which protrude from the bottom of the shoe, and making
walking tough.
The key to buying a good
shoe is fairly straightforward. Pick the type you want.
Then, make sure it fits you well. The fit is critical!
Our apologies to the fashion-oriented, but it would be
better to buy an ugly shoe that fits, than a gorgeous
one that doesn't. Looks are important, but blisters and
other assorted foot problems are a very high price to
pay. You should be able to easily find shoes which are
attractive and comfortable both.
Stuff to Wear
You can wear most
anything to ride a bike. But, clothes especially
designed for riding are a wonder. In terms of comfort
and function, top-quality bicycle apparel is incredibly
well-matched to the task of riding.
In order of priority,
apparel-related purchases could be a helmet and shoes
(which we've already discussed), gloves, and some sort
of eye protection. The helmet and gloves top the list,
because they help to protect you from the ground in case
of a fall. Eye protection, such as goggles, keeps bugs
and dirt out of your eyes, which also has safety
implications. Shoes are so darned practical that they
can't be ignored either. Beyond that, there's a whole
world of dazzling clothes that can help make you a more
efficient, more comfortable, and safer rider.
Why choose
cycling-specific clothes beyond this? There can be a lot
of wind out there in the world. Loose-fitting clothing
flaps around, makes lots of noise, traps a lot of air,
and makes you feel clammy from the perspiration. Shirts
can ride up in the back. There usually aren't enough
pockets in the right places. Drab colors may have looked
more normal to a conservative eye, but they don't do a
thing for visibility in traffic.
So, for city riding,
consider bright clothes. For cutting through wind, look
at reasonably tight jerseys with high-tech fabrics for
comfort. There's a lot to pick from. The issue is
function.
That also means wearing
riding shorts with padding. You can get casual-style or
racing-style shorts --somewhat traditional looking, or
very tight.
As far as shirts go, a
lot of people still wear cotton t-shirts, and that's
okay, but not ideal. Jerseys, on the other hand, fit
tighter, are longer in the back, don't hold too much
moisture, and come in designs for improved visibility.
For colder weather, there
are specialized jackets, tights and pants, heavier
gloves -- a whole variety of great stuff.
All the Rest
You'll also need a few
other little essentials around the house. One would be a
floor pump and a tire pressure gauge. If your pump
doesn't have a gauge built in, there are separate gauges
available for not too much money. Proper tire inflation
lets you know you're rolling along efficiently, without
excessive drag. It also lets you know you haven't pumped
the tires up way beyond their rated level, risking a
blowout in the process. A gauge can also warn you of
slow leaks. Most experienced riders check their tire
pressure every time they ride, along with tightness of
key bolts.
A good chain lubricant is
another basic. Chain wear, and the related wear on your
sprockets, has a lot to do with how a chain is
maintained. There's no big mystery about this. Keep the
surface of the chain wiped off. Lubricate it with
something designed for bicycle chains (no 3-in-1 oil,
for example). Don't let it dry out or rust. Don't blast
it with water from a high-pressure hose. A squeaky bike
is a tell-tale sign that you don't know what you're
doing. The chain should last thousands of miles, with
proper care.
If you want to
occasionally clean the chain more thoroughly, there are
chain cleaners available which remove grime (as well as
the lubricant) with a solvent. These are especially
useful for off-road riding, where the chain (and
everything else) can get caked with crud.
The lubricant can also do
double-duty in keeping your other moving parts moving.
Things like brake cables and derailleurs do better if
they get a dab of lubricant from time to time.
You might also want to
use something to keep the frame clean and waxed, and to
discourage corrosion. You want something that's easy to
spray on, and wipe off.
Equipment
Checklist:
Things You'll Need -
"For All Kinds of Riding"
- Helmet
- Bike Bag
- Patch Kit
- Spare Tube
- Minimum Tools
- Pump
- Tire Pressure Gauge
- Water Bottle and Cage
- Cycling Shoes
- Cycling Gloves
- Goggles/Glasses
- Cycling Shorts
- Cycling Jersey
- Cycling Jacket
- Lubricant
- Lock
"Some Neat
Extras"
- Bicycle Computer
- Magazine Subscription
- Books, Videos
- Indoor Trainer
- Lighting System
- Sunscreen
- Bike Rack for Car
"For the City"
"For the
Mountains"
- Extra Water Bottles
- Maps
- Fanny Pack
- Compass
"For Extended
Touring"
- Racks, Packs
- Camping Equipment